Get Your Houseplants Summer-Ready: A UK Guide to Keeping Them Happy in the Heat
As soon as temperatures start to creep up and the windows stay open a little longer, your houseplants notice. Some will absolutely love it – unfurling new leaves, growing faster than you’ve seen all year. Others will quietly sulk, dropping leaves or developing crispy brown tips if you don’t make a few small adjustments.
The good news is that getting your plants summer-ready takes less time than you think. Here’s everything you need to do before the heat properly arrives.
1. Move Plants Away From Direct Afternoon Sun
A window that was perfect in January can become a problem by June. Direct afternoon sun through glass intensifies significantly in summer and can scorch leaves within hours -especially on plants that prefer indirect light, like peace lilies, calatheas, pothos, and ferns.
South and west-facing windows are the main ones to watch. Moving plants a metre or two back from the glass, or adding a sheer curtain to diffuse the light, makes a real difference. East-facing spots tend to be the sweet spot in summer – bright morning light without the brutal afternoon intensity.
If you notice pale, papery patches appearing on leaves, that’s a sunscorch sign. Move the plant and trim the damaged leaves – they won’t recover, but new growth will come through healthily once it’s in a better position.
2. Adjust Your Watering Routine
Higher temperatures mean soil dries out faster, so most houseplants will need checking more frequently through summer. Rather than watering on a fixed schedule, get into the habit of pressing a finger an inch into the compost every couple of days – if it’s dry, water thoroughly; if it’s still damp, leave it.
Most houseplants prefer to dry out slightly between waterings, even in summer. Overwatering is still the most common way to kill a houseplant – more frequent checks doesn’t mean more water every time.
If you’re heading away on holiday and worried about your plants drying out, self-watering terracotta spikes are one of the most reliable low-cost solutions. You attach a plastic bottle filled with water to the spike, push it into the soil, and it slowly releases moisture as the plant needs it — keeping things ticking over for up to two weeks without anyone home.
3. Start a Summer Feeding Schedule
Most tropical houseplants – monsteras, calatheas, fiddle leaf figs, orchids – prefer humid air. In summer this usually sorts itself out naturally, but if you’re running fans or air conditioning, the dry airflow can cause browning leaf tips and crispy edges just as bad as winter central heating.
A few simple fixes: lightly mist plants in the morning (not in direct sun), group plants together so they create their own microclimate, or place pots on a tray of pebbles with a little water sitting below the drainage holes. The evaporating water adds moisture to the air immediately around the plant without sitting the roots in water.
An all-purpose liquid houseplant feed is the most versatile option if you have a mixed collection – look for a balanced NPK ratio on the label (something like 10-10-10 or 5-5-5 works across most varieties). A concentrated bottle goes a long way when diluted correctly and covers your whole collection through the entire summer for a few pounds.
4. Keep an Eye on Humidity
Spring and summer are your houseplants’ active growing season – and that means they’re ready to be fed. Most houseplants need very little fertiliser through autumn and winter when growth slows, but from around April through September they’ll benefit from a regular liquid feed added to your watering.
Every two weeks is the standard recommendation for most varieties. Dilute a liquid fertiliser into your watering can and apply it in place of a normal watering -this avoids over-feeding, which can cause leaf burn.
5. Check for Pests Before They Take Hold
Warmer temperatures and open windows are the perfect conditions for houseplant pests to thrive and spread. Spider mites, fungus gnats, aphids, and mealybugs are all more active in summer – and they move between plants quickly if left unchecked.
Make checking the undersides of leaves part of your regular watering routine. Most infestations are far easier to treat when caught early: a damp cloth wipe, a spray of diluted neem oil, or simply isolating an affected plant for a week can stop a problem in its tracks before it spreads to your whole collection.
Keep an eye on any new plants you bring home too – quarantine them for a couple of weeks before placing them near your existing plants, especially in summer when pests are at their most active.
6. Should You Move Plants Outside for Summer?
Some houseplants absolutely thrive with a summer stint outdoors in a sheltered spot – trailing succulents, string of pearls, most cacti, and even larger tropical varieties can benefit from the natural humidity and airflow. But there are a few things to get right first.
Never move plants straight from indoors to full outdoor conditions. The sudden change in light levels, temperature, and wind can shock them even if the conditions seem ideal. Spend a few days near an open door or a sheltered porch first to acclimatise them gradually.
Stick to a shaded or semi-shaded spot – outdoor summer sun is far more intense than anything coming through a window, even south-facing. And bring plants back inside before the nights start to cool in late August, before any risk of temperature drop.
7. Is It Time to Repot?
Early summer is one of the best times to repot a plant that’s been looking cramped – the growing season means it’ll settle into its new home quickly and you’ll often see a burst of new growth within a few weeks. Signs it’s time: roots poking out of drainage holes, roots circling the surface of the compost, or a plant that dries out unusually quickly after watering (a sign the pot is more root than soil).
Go up one pot size at a time rather than jumping to something significantly larger – too much extra compost around the roots can hold moisture and cause rot. A fresh mix of houseplant compost with a little added perlite for drainage is ideal for most varieties.
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Browse the marketplace →Frequently Asked Questions
Do houseplants need more water in summer?
Most do — higher temperatures cause soil to dry out faster. Rather than watering on a fixed schedule, check the top inch of soil every couple of days and water when it feels dry. Overwatering is still the most common mistake even in warm weather.
Can I put my houseplants outside in the UK summer?
Many houseplants can go outside in a sheltered, shaded spot — but acclimatise them gradually first and bring them back in before temperatures drop in late August. Avoid direct outdoor sun, which is far more intense than indoor light.
When should I start feeding my houseplants?
Start feeding from around April when active growth begins, and continue every two weeks through to the end of September. Use a diluted liquid feed in place of a normal watering — most varieties don't need feeding at all through autumn and winter.
Why are my houseplant leaves going brown at the tips in summer?
Brown tips in summer are usually caused by low humidity — especially if you're running a fan or air conditioning. Try misting in the morning, grouping plants together, or placing pots on a pebble tray with water. Direct sun or underwatering can also cause tip browning.
What houseplants are best for a hot summer room?
Heat-tolerant plants like cacti, succulents, snake plants, ZZ plants, and aloe vera handle warm conditions well. Tropical plants like monsteras and pothos also cope with summer heat as long as they have indirect light and consistent moisture.
